5 – SAINT STEPHEN PARISH CHURCH (ENG)

The Sorano Saint Stephen Parish Church in Filattiera is one of the most important Romanesque parish churches in the province of Massa Carrara. It stands in a strategic area that has been inhabited since prehistoric times—seven stele statues have been discovered in the vicinity—and it still preserves its 12th-century layout, a Romanesque architectural masterpiece featuring an imposing apse system built entirely from unhewn sandstone pebbles.

Inside the fully restored church, numerous medieval elements are preserved, along with two original stele statues (Sorano I and Sorano V). The area where the church stands has been inhabited since prehistoric times, as evidenced by the seven stele statues and numerous Iron Age artifacts found nearby. Following the Roman period—documented by the presence of a mansio (a Roman way station) recently excavated archaeologically—Filattiera became an important Byzantine military settlement. Before the current Romanesque parish church, an earlier early medieval church (8th–9th century) likely existed, from which the Leodegar Inscription (752 AD) may have originated; this inscription is now housed in the Church of Saint George inside the village.

The Romanesque parish church was built between the 11th and 12th centuries as part of the ecclesiastical reorganization of theLuni Diocese, of which it was perhaps the most significant church in the Lunigiana region. The Sorano Saint Stephen Parish Church is mentioned in all major documents related to the Luni Diocese from the 11th century onward, reaching its peak of splendor until the 14th century, when it began to be abandoned and was gradually converted into a cemetery chapel.

Its present appearance is the result of extensive restoration completed in 2000, which restored its original look. The entire building was constructed using a unique technique, with unshaped river pebbles set in place with abundant mortar. It has a basilica plan with three naves, without a transept, with the central nave larger than the other two and a slightly elevated presbytery.

On the facade, one can observe the polylobed rose window and some walled-up openings. Inside, on the left counter-façade, in the corner, are the stele statues Sorano I and Sorano V, which were found in the church area. Sorano V was repurposed as a lintel for a small entrance later walled up.

The interior is austere, severe, and dimly lit, with large double-ring arches resting on round pillars with very short engraved capitals. On the left side, some 18th-century masonry arches were inserted between the original Romanesque ones. Decoration and symbolism are minimal, but there are some notable carvings, including a monstrous figure high on the left side of the central nave.

The most architecturally significant part of the church is undoubtedly the three apses, which feature architectural decoration at various depths. In the upper part of the main apse, traces of small sculpted semi-capitals can still be seen. The bell tower, which may have originally served as a defensive structure, is connected to the church but remains a distinct architectural element.